Domaine de Biar

The word “folly” once upon a time conveyed generalized delight in nature — a favored country retreat for the aristocracy. That sense predominates as you approach Domaine de Biar, a lovingly restored estate set like a gemstone amid more than 120 acres of bucolic meadows, farmland, old-growth trees, and vineyards outside Montpellier on France’s Mediterranean coast. The rooms reflect the varying temperaments of Biar’s onetime residents. They differ substantially, from Belle Époque hedonism in sultry reds and lavenders to grayscale phantasmagoria with accordion lamps and sketches of scientific instruments. The Rational-Romantic dialectic is alive and well, in other words. Accents both whimsical and luxe abound: freestanding tubs, hidden doors, private terraces, and fireplaces can all be found in one room or another. And lest you resign yourself to Enlightenment-era comforts, there are also flatscreens, Nespresso machines, and complimentary wi-fi. Here, as elsewhere, there’s a gratifying dedication to stringent ecological standards in the materials and energy protocols. Speaking of which, La Table de Biar serves Slow Food–influenced cuisine made largely from ingredients produced on site.