Baumanière

Les Baux de Provence is perhaps one of the most spectacular and unsettling of nature’s creations. These whitewashed cliffs, dotted with medieval houses, will stun you with their proportion and their sublime beauty. And should it all prove to be a bit overwhelming, it’s always nice to know that you can retreat to the Baumanière, perennial retreat of royals, statesmen and other leading lights since the day it opened for business in 1945. Guests stay in farmhouses, some of them dating back to the sixteenth century. With sun splashed facades wreathed with wisteria and wild roses, they are Provençal paradise. Rooms are sparely decorated with furniture whose clean, modern lines enhance the weathered fireplaces and flagstone floors. Leave your windows open in the morning, so that you may soak in the scents of the profuse flowers and herbs outside. Life is simple. There’s homemade jam for breakfast, and perhaps, later, a stroll around the tangled grounds. There’s a pool, a tidy little gym, and a gorgeous modern spa. Baumanière is a family affair. Jean-Andre Charial took over from his grandfather, founder Raymond Thuillier, and, thus maintained its intimate, homely air. Charial, like his grandfather before him, is first and foremost a chef. Hence, when you’re staying here, you must eat. This is, after all, the same kitchen that trained Wolfgang Puck. The dining room, with its cathedral ceilings and wrought iron chandeliers, is austere, but its diners are animated, its waiters are warm, the wine is rich, and the cuisine is sublime. And its windows look directly onto the Baux cliffs. In the evenings, watch them flush red with the setting sun, and then, just as it turns dark, blaze with gold as all the lights in the surrounding houses switch on for the night.