Al Moudira Hotel

The name is Arabic for “the boss” — maybe more poetic if left untranslated, but very much to the point, if what you’re after is summing up the feeling of staying in a palace like Al Moudira. Though constructed in a traditional style, it’s a new build, and must have seemed a bit of a folly, out in the middle of nowhere. Here, surrounded by farmland on the quiet west bank of the Nile, you’re far removed from the east bank tourist crush, and closer to where you’re actually headed, likely as not the Valley of the Kings. “Traditional” actually doesn’t even quite cover it. Al Moudira’s 54 rooms are palatial, ornate, fifty-plus square meters of stone, tile, gold leaf and antique furniture. Hammam-style bathrooms are spacious and well-lit, almost obviating the need to visit the spa — almost, but not quite, as the pool and the Turkish baths are a must-see, tempting indeed after a day in the heat and dust of Luxor, Karnak or the valleys. If there’s a down side, it’s that Al Moudira’s seclusion leaves guests at the mercy of the hotel for dining and entertainment. Thankfully it’s up to the task — the Great Room serves Middle Eastern and European fare beneath stone arches and crystal chandeliers, and cocktails are served in the British-style Colonial bar, the Arabian-themed Eastern, or, by day, simply out by the pool. How to get there: Al Moudira is a 20 minute drive from Luxor International Airport. You can also get to Al Moudira by taxi, or by ferry boats that cross the Nile frequently, day and night.